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Thursday
December 31, 1998


there has to be a morning after After a late night in the smoking car we barely made it to lunch where we met a stylin' older guy named JC. He took pictures of his Alaska trip from his breast pocket: a tranquilized polar bear in back of a pickup, its fur spotted red where the dart had gone in. If you really want to see polar bears the best way is to hire a cab to take you to the dump, he said. Over dinner we met Dick and Jane from Maine who shared four bottles of champagne and the birthday cake Tom the sleeping car attendant had run out to pick up in the short layover in Havre, Montana. We were so fagged from our New Year's Eve Eve revels that we slept through the coming of 1999 twice--shortly after midnight we crossed from Mountain to Pacific zone and stepped back in time.

happy berthday