When we first got here I feared that three days of relaxing in hot pools and saunas might get a little boring. The night we arrived we sat by a poolside fire swigging that old spa favorite Becherovka. The first full day I overdid it a bit, stretched in the infrared sauna till I felt muscles separate from my ribs like a slow-roasted pig. The second day I needed to recover from my health regimen, soothed my sore body by treading water in the 84°F wavepool which was activated for 15 minutes at the top of every hour. Today we had to check out by 11am but for 16 Euros extra we extended our visit with a daypass and wrung the most out of every second until we packed into the 4:30 shuttle to Vienna--just when I was starting to get used to it. Next time I think we'll stay 7 days. It's more than just slowing down enough to breathe. Hundertwasser sought integration of what he called the 5 skins--body, clothes, shelter, society, planet. Bad Blumau is a shrine to his ideas and practice. Coming here is a kind of pilgrimage and it's a re-awakening of human potential to be immersed in it.