the first rule of amtrak is never book online.
the website is incoherent and frustrating in myriad
and sometimes surprising ways. so it's always better
to speak with a human to get the best deal and avoid
obscure conditions and limitations. as an amtrak
aficionado of more than 30 years, i know this. i
preach it. and yet... and yet. i don't know what
came over me, but i fucked around and found
out--booked online and even applied some rewards
points. that was a fatal error. for you see, when
you use points you forsake your ability to bid for a
low-cost upgrade to a sleeper, and so i doomed us to
a lengthy round trip in coach as we wend our way to
wisconsin, minnesota, and back again. but at least
coach has come a long way since i last rode it any
great distance 20 years ago, with comfier seats,
better water, plus sexy mood lighting. but the first
few hours was a dark night of the soul as i pined
for our kitties and tried to fold my body into a
comfortable position, a failed experiment in
anatomical origami. barely east of the cascades and
it was already an excruciating exercise in
exhaustion and pain, neck stiff, back tweaked. my
thoughts took a despairing turn as i peered into the
abyss of rapidly approaching madness. i even
squirmed under our seats like a cockroach,
horizontal at last but wedged into claustrophobic
immobility. i shimmied back out, resigned to my
fate, reminding myself to keep things in
perspective--i wasn't, after all, a refugee huddled
in the bottom of an overloaded leaky raft in the
mediterranean. that snapped me out of self-pity and
soon afterwards some seats opened up after stopping
in spokane and i was able to claim a pair and curl
into a fetal ball with a crumpled tee shirt for a
pillow. the sleep that comes when that tired is
oblivion itself, a tunnel with no light at the end.
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